Manali to Leh Motorcycle Tour with Umling La 10 Days

Route: Manali local ride and acclimatization
Distance: Approximately 20 km local riding
Riding / Touring Time: 3 to 4 hours including briefing and sightseeing
Altitude: Manali approximately 2,050 m or 6,725 ft
Road: Easy paved town roads with local traffic
Overnight: Hotel in Manali
Meals: Breakfast and dinner
Highlights: Hadimba Temple, Manali mountain culture, bike fitting, group safety briefing and acclimatization time.

Manali is where the Himalayas first begin to feel close enough to touch. Cedar forests rise behind the town, the Beas River runs cold from the mountains, and the road north hints at the vast high-altitude country waiting beyond the Atal Tunnel. Today is intentionally gentle. After hotel check-in, meet the road captain, mechanic and support crew, then receive your motorcycle. The team will explain the controls, luggage system, daily formation, hand signals, overtaking rules and the procedure to follow if weather or altitude forces a route change.

A supervised shakedown ride follows on quiet local roads. This is the time to adjust mirrors and levers, test the brakes and clutch, check riding posture and make sure the helmet and protective equipment fit correctly. Riders should report any mechanical concern immediately rather than trying to adapt to an uncomfortable setup. Depending on arrival time and energy levels, the afternoon may include the forest-set Hadimba Temple, a walk along Mall Road or a visit toward Vashisht, known for its old village atmosphere and hot springs. These visits are not simply sightseeing; they offer a first glimpse of the cultural transition from the Kullu Valley toward the trans-Himalayan world.

Manali is lower than the passes ahead, so this day does not provide full high-altitude acclimatization. It does, however, allow the body to recover from travel and gives the group time to establish a safe riding rhythm. Drink water regularly, eat a light dinner and avoid alcohol. We strongly recommend arriving in Manali one or two nights before the official tour, especially for riders arriving directly from low altitude or after a long international flight. Tomorrow brings a rapid climb toward Sarchu, making rest and honest self-assessment essential.

The evening briefing also covers the cultural etiquette that will matter later in the journey. Buddhist monasteries require quiet behaviour and modest dress, border villages deserve privacy, and military checkpoints are not places for casual photography. Pack the next day’s thermal layer, rain protection and water where they can be reached without unloading the motorcycle. A calm first night, not last-minute excitement, is the best preparation for the high road.

Safety Notification:
Arrive well rested. Do not begin the expedition with a cold, fever, severe fatigue or poorly controlled medical condition. Inform the tour leader of any medication, previous altitude illness or injury that could affect riding.

Route: Manali – Atal Tunnel – Sissu – Keylong – Jispa – Baralacha La – Sarchu
Distance: Approximately 220 to 235 km
Riding / Touring Time: 7 to 9 hours depending on traffic, water crossings and roadworks
Altitude: Highest point Baralacha La approximately 4,850 m or 15,910 ft; sleep near 4,290 m or 14,070 ft
Road: Mostly paved highway with broken sections, gravel, meltwater crossings and possible construction zones
Overnight: Fixed camp or guest accommodation in Sarchu
Meals: Breakfast and dinner
Highlights: Atal Tunnel, Lahaul Valley, Keylong and Jispa, Baralacha La and the high-altitude landscape of Sarchu.

The expedition begins beside the green slopes of Manali before disappearing into the Atal Tunnel, the modern gateway beneath the Pir Panjal range. Emerging near Sissu feels like entering another country of light and geology: forests thin, cliffs sharpen and the broad Lahaul Valley opens around the Chandra River. The road passes small settlements where Buddhist chortens and prayer flags announce the gradual cultural shift from Himachal Pradesh toward Ladakh.

Beyond Tandi, Keylong and Jispa, villages become sparse and the ride turns more serious. The highway climbs through Darcha toward the high plateau, with changing surfaces caused by winter damage, road maintenance and snowmelt. Baralacha La is the great threshold of the day. At roughly 4,850 metres, the pass links several mountain regions and can remain cold and windy even when Manali is warm. Stops at the summit should be brief: take photographs, keep your helmet or warm layer on and avoid unnecessary exertion. The descent continues past stark valleys and seasonal streams toward Sarchu, a remote staging point surrounded by eroded cliffs and open sky.

This is one of the tour’s most demanding altitude transitions. The scenery is magnificent, but the body may react to the rapid gain with headache, disturbed sleep, nausea or unusual fatigue. The road captain may slow the pace, shorten stops or change the overnight location if conditions require. On arrival, keep activity minimal, eat lightly and stay warm; dehydration and cold can make altitude symptoms feel worse. The evening in Sarchu is quiet and elemental – canvas, wind and an immense Himalayan horizon – but it must be approached with respect rather than bravado.

Riding technique should remain conservative throughout the day. Meltwater often carries silt across the road, and shaded corners can stay damp or icy when exposed areas are dry. Enter crossings in a steady gear, avoid sudden braking and wait for the rider ahead to clear the section. Fuel and food choices become limited after the larger Lahaul settlements, so use planned stops and do not separate from the group.

Safety Notification:
Sarchu is a high sleeping point after a rapid ascent. Never hide headache, nausea, dizziness, breathlessness at rest or confusion. Do not continue upward if symptoms are worsening; the road captain may arrange descent or medical support.

Route: Sarchu – Gata Loops – Nakee La – Lachulung La – Pang – More Plains – Tanglang La – Leh
Distance: Approximately 250 to 260 km
Riding / Touring Time: 8 to 10 hours with high-pass stops
Altitude: Multiple passes above 4,700 m; Tanglang La approximately 5,328 m or 17,480 ft; sleep in Leh around 3,500 m
Road: Long paved sections mixed with rough patches, tight hairpins, gravel shoulders and high winds on exposed plains
Overnight: Hotel in Leh
Meals: Breakfast and dinner
Highlights: Gata Loops, Nakee La, Lachulung La, More Plains, Tanglang La and arrival in the Indus Valley at Leh.

Morning in Sarchu often begins with frost on the tents and a pale sun touching the canyon walls. The route climbs almost immediately toward the Gata Loops, a famous ladder of 21 hairpin bends cut into the barren mountainside. Viewed from above, the road looks like a ribbon folded repeatedly across the slope. The riding is not technically extreme when dry, but concentration matters: stay in your lane, select the correct gear before each turn and allow heavy vehicles enough space to swing through the bends.

After Nakee La and Lachulung La, the landscape becomes increasingly lunar. The road drops toward Pang and then releases the group onto the More Plains, a broad high-altitude plateau where the horizon appears impossibly distant. Crosswinds can arrive without warning, so riders should maintain a relaxed grip and avoid riding too close together. The final major ascent reaches Tanglang La, one of the route’s highest crossings. Stops remain short because cold, low oxygen and exertion combine quickly at this elevation.

The descent toward Rumtse and the Indus Valley brings a welcome change. Villages, cultivated fields and monasteries reappear, and the road follows the river into Leh, the historic capital of Ladakh. For centuries, caravans moved through this region between Central Asia, Tibet and the Indian plains; arriving by motorcycle still carries a sense of crossing into an old trading world. Check into the hotel, shower, hydrate and rest. Although Leh sits lower than several points crossed today, altitude effects can still develop after arrival. The evening should remain unhurried, with a simple meal and no alcohol. The hardest highway stage is complete, but the expedition now turns toward remote border valleys where permits, weather and physical condition continue to shape each day’s plan.

The More Plains and surrounding high desert are also ecologically delicate. Stay on the established highway, avoid shortcutting across the plateau and never leave food or plastic at roadside stops. In Leh, the support team inspects tyres, chains, brake pads and luggage mounts after two long mountain days. Riders should report every unusual vibration, fluid leak or control issue now, before the route turns north over Khardung La.

Safety Notification:
This is a long, exposed ride. Keep waterproof gloves, thermal layers, sunglasses and water accessible. Report headache or loss of concentration immediately; fatigue and hypoxia both reduce reaction time.

Route: Leh – South Pullu – Khardung La – North Pullu – Diskit – Hunder
Distance: Approximately 125 to 135 km
Riding / Touring Time: 5 to 6 hours including monastery and pass stops
Altitude: Khardung La approximately 5,359 m or 17,582 ft; sleep in Hunder around 3,100 m
Road: Primarily paved mountain road with steep switchbacks, occasional broken surfaces and traffic near the pass
Overnight: Camp, guesthouse or hotel in Hunder
Meals: Breakfast and dinner
Highlights: Khardung La, panoramic views over Leh, Diskit Monastery, Maitreya Buddha, Hunder dunes and Bactrian camel country.

Leaving Leh, the road climbs quickly above the Indus Valley. The town contracts below, while the Stok Range and the Zanskar mountains spread across the southern horizon. Checkpoints at South Pullu mark the entrance to a sensitive high-altitude route, and the group proceeds according to the permits and traffic instructions in force that day. Khardung La remains one of Ladakh’s iconic motorcycle crossings, not because it demands aggressive riding, but because it places riders in a severe environment where weather, oxygen and road conditions can change rapidly.

At the pass, prayer flags crack in the wind and snow peaks crowd the skyline. Photographs are taken efficiently, with no running or prolonged exertion. The northward descent reveals the upper Shyok and Nubra valleys, once part of a caravan corridor linking Leh with Yarkand and Central Asia. As the air becomes warmer, the scenery softens into villages, willow groves and irrigated fields. A visit to Diskit Monastery introduces the spiritual landscape of Nubra. Its hilltop position and large Maitreya Buddha look across the valley toward the mountains, embodying a Buddhist tradition that has shaped local life for centuries.

The final ride reaches Hunder, where pale sand dunes sit unexpectedly between snowbound ranges. Double-humped Bactrian camels recall the trade caravans that once crossed this desert valley. A short camel experience may be available, but participation should be respectful and subject to animal-welfare standards. Settle into camp or a guesthouse and enjoy a calmer evening at a lower sleeping altitude than the pass. The reduced elevation often improves appetite and sleep, yet riders should continue monitoring symptoms and hydrating. Tomorrow is less about high passes and more about the human geography of Ladakh’s far northwest.

Nubra’s apparent desert is sustained by water from glaciers and mountain streams. Irrigation channels feed small fields, orchards and settlements that have supported travelers for generations. This contrast between sand, cultivation and snow is central to the valley’s character. At the evening briefing, the guide explains the frontier route to Turtuk, including restrictions on photography and the need to give priority to military traffic on narrow sections.

Safety Notification:
Carry passport and permit copies in a waterproof pouch. The summit stop may be cancelled if snow, congestion or health concerns make it unsafe. Follow checkpoint photography restrictions.

Route: Hunder – Thoise sector – Tyakshi – Turtuk – Hunder
Distance: Approximately 165 to 180 km return
Riding / Touring Time: 6 to 7 hours including village exploration
Altitude: Mostly 2,800 to 3,100 m with no major high pass
Road: Generally paved valley road with narrow sections, military traffic and occasional rockfall zones
Overnight: Camp, guesthouse or hotel in Hunder
Meals: Breakfast and dinner
Highlights: Shyok Valley scenery, Turtuk’s Balti culture, traditional homes, apricot orchards and a remote borderland atmosphere.

Today’s road follows the Shyok River deeper into the borderlands, where broad valley floors narrow between immense walls of rock. Compared with the previous high-pass days, the riding is gentler and warmer, but the route requires disciplined road positioning. Military convoys, blind bends and patches of fallen stone are common features of this strategic corridor. The road captain controls overtaking and photography near sensitive installations.

Turtuk is one of the most culturally distinctive stops in Ladakh. The village became part of India in 1971 and retains a strong Balti identity expressed through language, architecture, food and family traditions. Narrow footpaths thread between stone houses, irrigation channels and apricot orchards. Depending on the season, the trees may carry blossom, green fruit or the sweet apricots for which the region is known. A local walk offers the chance to understand how people cultivate small pockets of fertile land in an otherwise severe mountain environment. Conversation matters more than collecting photographs: ask permission before photographing residents, dress respectfully and remember that this is a living community rather than an attraction created for visitors.

After lunch and time in the village, retrace the route to Hunder. The same valley looks different in the afternoon as shadows deepen and the river reflects the changing light. Because there is no major pass, riders can focus on smooth cornering, observation and the cultural story of the landscape. Back at camp, review the motorcycles and prepare for the next stage toward Pangong Tso. The route through the Shyok Valley can be affected by water levels, road damage and local restrictions; the team will confirm the following day’s plan in the evening briefing.

Local meals may include simple Ladakhi or Balti dishes, seasonal vegetables and apricot products, depending on availability. Accept hospitality without expecting urban restaurant choice, and tell the operator about dietary restrictions before the tour begins. Tourism provides useful income, but respectful spending matters: choose locally made products, avoid aggressive bargaining and do not enter orchards or homes without invitation. These small decisions make the cultural encounter more genuine for both guest and host.

Safety Notification:
This is a sensitive frontier region. Obey all instructions concerning checkpoints, drones and photography. Bring comfortable walking shoes for uneven village paths and ask before photographing people or private homes.

Route: Hunder – Khalsar – Agham – Shyok – Durbuk – Tangtse – Pangong Tso
Distance: Approximately 155 to 170 km
Riding / Touring Time: 6 to 8 hours depending on road and river conditions
Altitude: Pangong Tso approximately 4,350 m or 14,270 ft
Road: Mixed pavement, broken mountain road, gravel, dust and possible shallow water crossings
Overnight: Cottage or camp near Pangong Tso
Meals: Breakfast and dinner
Highlights: Shyok River route, Changthang landscapes, first view of Pangong Tso, colour-changing water and a high-altitude lakeside night.

The ride to Pangong Tso follows the dramatic Shyok corridor, where the road repeatedly negotiates the space between river and mountain. The valley is raw, wide and sparsely inhabited, with long stretches where geology becomes the dominant presence. Surface conditions change from clean tarmac to rough patches, loose gravel and seasonal water crossings. Rather than attacking the terrain, riders should stand lightly on the foot pegs when appropriate, keep inputs smooth and allow the motorcycle to move beneath them.

Beyond Durbuk and Tangtse, the route climbs into the Changthang region. The first view of Pangong Tso is one of Ladakh’s great reveals: a band of blue appearing between ochre mountains, its colour shifting with cloud, wind and angle of light. The lake is a high-altitude endorheic water body extending across the international border. Its beauty is powerful but the environment is fragile. Keep away from wetland habitat, take all waste out and avoid disturbing birds or wildlife. Depending on time and permitted access, the group explores designated lakeside viewpoints before checking into simple accommodation.

A night at Pangong is memorable precisely because comfort is limited and nature dominates. Temperatures fall rapidly after sunset, electricity may be restricted and mobile coverage is unreliable. The lake’s elevation is substantially higher than Hunder, so the team again monitors headache, nausea, dizziness, sleep disturbance and unusual breathlessness. Move slowly, keep dinner light and do not drink alcohol. If symptoms become more than mild, descent and medical judgment take priority over the itinerary. As darkness settles, the shoreline grows silent and the stars appear with extraordinary clarity – a fitting prelude to the even more remote country ahead.

The lakeshore has suffered from unmanaged visitor pressure in the past, so this stage should model low-impact travel. Use designated toilets, refuse single-use plastic where practical and never drive onto the beach or wet ground. Washing in the lake, feeding birds and leaving prayer flags or other objects behind are inappropriate. A responsible visit preserves the sense of remoteness that makes Pangong powerful in the first place.

Safety Notification:
Water crossings and damaged sections vary by season. Keep luggage secured and electronics protected. Do not walk fast or climb for photographs after arrival; Pangong is a high sleeping altitude.

Route: Pangong Tso – Chushul – Tsaga – Loma – Hanle subject to permits and road authorization
Distance: Approximately 170 to 190 km
Riding / Touring Time: 7 to 9 hours including checkpoints and scenic stops
Altitude: Hanle approximately 4,500 m or 14,760 ft
Road: Remote mixed-surface route with tarmac, gravel, corrugations, dust and long distances between services
Overnight: Guesthouse or homestay in Hanle
Meals: Breakfast and dinner
Highlights: Remote Changthang riding, frontier landscapes, possible wildlife, Hanle Monastery and exceptional stargazing conditions.

Today’s journey leaves the busier Pangong area and enters one of Ladakh’s most isolated landscapes. The route runs through the southeastern Changthang, a high plateau of wind-shaped plains, saline lakes and distant ranges. Checkpoints and permit conditions determine the exact road used; the road captain may divert the group without notice if access rules, weather or security requirements change. Fuel, food and mechanical services are scarce, so the support team checks range and equipment before departure.

The ride passes through Chushul and Tsaga toward Loma, crossing country associated with Changpa pastoral communities and rare high-altitude wildlife. With patience, riders may see kiang, marmots or migratory birds, though sightings are never guaranteed. Wildlife always has priority: slow down, keep distance and never leave the road to chase an animal for a photograph. The terrain can feel empty, yet it has long supported seasonal movement, grazing and borderland communities adapted to an extreme climate.

Hanle appears as a green thread in the valley beneath an old monastery. The village is known for exceptionally dark skies and for the Indian Astronomical Observatory located in this remote region. Any observatory visit is subject to permission and operational access, but the night sky itself is often the defining experience. After check-in, rest before a gentle visit to the monastery or village if health and daylight allow. Hanle’s elevation is around 4,500 metres, so even riders who felt well at Pangong must continue to monitor symptoms. Keep noise and artificial light low after dark, both out of respect for residents and to preserve the quality of the night sky. Tomorrow’s Umling La attempt depends completely on weather, permits, road status and the group’s condition.

Hanle’s astronomy story is inseparable from its clear, dry atmosphere and limited light pollution. Stargazing should therefore be conducted quietly, with red or dimmed lights where possible and no flash aimed toward homes or observatory facilities. Nights can become bitterly cold even after a sunny afternoon. Prepare gloves, hat and thermal layers before leaving the room, and return indoors immediately if shivering, headache or fatigue increases.

Safety Notification:
There are long stretches without fuel or reliable phone signal. Stay with the group, carry personal medication and keep a warm layer accessible. The final route is permit-dependent and can change at short notice.

Route: Hanle – Chisumle sector – Umling La – Hanle subject to current authorization
Distance: Approximately 150 to 180 km return depending on the permitted approach
Riding / Touring Time: 6 to 9 hours
Altitude: Umling La approximately 5,799 m or 19,024 ft
Road: Very high-altitude paved and broken road with gravel, intense wind, cold and rapidly changing weather
Overnight: Guesthouse or homestay in Hanle
Meals: Breakfast and dinner
Highlights: The 19,024-ft Umling La road, extreme high-altitude riding, remote Changthang scenery and a return to Hanle’s dark skies.

Umling La is the expedition’s highest objective and its most serious day. The road rises into an austere world where vegetation disappears and the atmosphere feels visibly thin. At approximately 5,799 metres, this is one of the highest motorable roads on earth and far above the elevation at which most travelers normally function. The achievement lies in reaching it safely, not in spending a long time at the summit or pushing beyond personal limits.

The group leaves Hanle only after the road captain reviews permits, weather, motorcycle condition and rider health. The approach varies according to authorized routes and local instructions. Surfaces may include clean pavement, frost-damaged edges, gravel and dust. Cold can reduce concentration and hand control, while hypoxia slows decision-making. Riders maintain generous spacing, avoid sudden overtakes and communicate any symptom immediately. At the pass, the stop is deliberately short. Take a few photographs, remain calm and avoid running, jumping or removing protective layers for extended periods.

A rider with worsening headache, vomiting, confusion, loss of coordination, chest congestion or breathlessness at rest must descend and receive urgent assessment. Reaching the pass is optional; turning around is a professional safety decision, never a failure. Weather, security orders or permit restrictions may prevent the attempt entirely, and no operator can guarantee access to Umling La. The return to Hanle retraces the high plateau toward thicker air and shelter. Back at the guesthouse, rest, hydrate and share the quiet satisfaction of a rare Himalayan ride. The evening remains low-key because fatigue can mask developing altitude problems. Tomorrow is another long stage, descending through geothermal country and the Indus Valley to Leh.

Mental discipline is as important as riding skill today. The visibility of the objective can tempt riders to hurry, ignore symptoms or compete for the first arrival. The group instead moves at the pace set by the captain, with fixed regrouping points and no independent detours. Cameras and phones should be secured before moving; stopping suddenly on a blind crest or exposed slope creates an unnecessary hazard for everyone behind.

Safety Notification:
Access is never guaranteed. The road captain has final authority to cancel or turn back. Riders must not use alcohol, sedatives or recreational drugs at altitude. Anyone with heart, lung, sleep-apnoea or prior severe altitude issues should obtain specialist medical advice before booking.

Route: Hanle – Loma – Nyoma – Mahe – Puga Valley – Upshi – Thiksey – Leh
Distance: Approximately 260 to 290 km depending on detours
Riding / Touring Time: 8 to 10 hours
Altitude: High plateau riding before descending to Leh around 3,500 m
Road: Long mixed-quality highway with paved sections, rough patches, winds and occasional sand or gravel
Overnight: Hotel in Leh
Meals: Breakfast and farewell dinner
Highlights: Changthang Plateau, Nyoma and Mahe, Puga geothermal landscape, Indus Valley, Thiksey Monastery and return to Leh.

The final riding day draws a long line westward from Hanle across the Changthang. Early light reveals an immense landscape of pale mountains, grazing grounds and river valleys. The route returns through Loma and Nyoma toward Mahe, where permit checks and road conditions again influence timing. This is a distance day rather than a technical off-road stage, yet accumulated fatigue demands discipline. Riders should stretch at stops, eat small snacks and avoid drifting into the hypnotic rhythm of the plateau.

A detour toward Puga Valley introduces another face of Ladakh. Steam, mineral deposits and geothermal activity mark a landscape that appears almost otherworldly. The area is ecologically sensitive; visitors remain on established routes and follow local restrictions. Continuing down the Indus corridor, villages become more frequent and the road gradually returns to the cultural heartland around Leh. If time, opening hours and rider condition allow, visit Thiksey Monastery. Rising in tiers above the valley, the complex is one of Ladakh’s most striking monastic sites and offers a powerful closing connection to the region’s Buddhist heritage.

The final kilometres into Leh carry a mixture of relief and reluctance. Motorcycles that have crossed green valleys, high deserts, river corridors and some of the world’s loftiest roads now roll back into the capital. Return the bikes after the mechanical inspection, check into the hotel and enjoy a hot shower. The farewell dinner is a chance to thank the road team and reflect on the journey without exaggerating its risks or achievements. The true reward is not a summit photograph alone, but a deeper understanding of how landscape, faith, trade, border history and human resilience meet across Ladakh.

Before dinner, complete the equipment return and report any damage transparently. Back up photographs while power and internet are available, but remember that images from sensitive areas should not be posted if local instructions prohibit them. Riders planning onward travel should reconfirm flights and transport. Keeping one flexible night in Leh protects against the delays that are normal on remote Himalayan routes.

Safety Notification:
This is a long final ride. Fatigue can be as dangerous as rough terrain, so maintain spacing and tell the captain if concentration drops. Monastery visits depend on arrival time and may be omitted for safety.

Route: Hotel in Leh – Leh Airport
Distance: Approximately 5 to 10 km transfer
Riding / Touring Time: 20 to 40 minutes plus airport check-in time
Altitude: Leh approximately 3,500 m or 11,500 ft
Road: Paved urban road; no motorcycle riding
Overnight: Not included unless separately arranged
Meals: Breakfast subject to flight time
Highlights: Final Himalayan views, airport transfer and an optional extension in Leh.

The expedition ends with a transfer to Leh Airport. The short drive feels almost effortless after the scale of the previous nine days, yet the mountains remain close on every side. Allow generous time for security procedures and possible traffic, and keep identification and flight documents accessible. Weather in the Himalayas can affect flights, so international connections should not be scheduled too tightly on the same day.

As the aircraft lifts above the Indus Valley, the route becomes visible in fragments: pale ridges, river corridors and distant high passes. What remains is more than a record of kilometres. The journey has moved from Manali’s cedar forests through Lahaul and the Manali-Leh highway, into Nubra’s caravan country, along Pangong Tso and across the remote Changthang to Hanle and Umling La. It has also required patience, teamwork and respect for altitude – qualities that define responsible Himalayan motorcycle travel.

Guests extending their stay can add extra nights in Leh for local sightseeing, rest or contingency. This is often wise because road closures and weather delays are part of travel in Ladakh. Any post-tour activity should remain gentle if altitude symptoms persist. Seek medical advice for worsening headache, breathlessness, confusion, poor coordination or other concerning symptoms rather than assuming that rest alone will solve the problem.

Before leaving the hotel, check that riding deposits, damage reports and rented equipment have been settled and that no original document remains with the operator. Keep warm clothing in hand luggage because flight delays can prolong the morning in Leh. The expedition is complete, but sensible recovery continues with rest, hydration and a gradual return to normal exercise after several demanding days at altitude.

Safety Notification:
Keep at least one buffer day before a long-haul international connection where possible. Flight schedules and road access can change because of mountain weather.